Materials:

When using the suggested materials, it will be about 30 cm long.

The listed wool and hook sizes are only suggestions. It is, of course, entirely your

personal choice, which yarn you use.

Please keep in mind that different yarn may result in a bigger or smaller piece. Make

sure to adapt your hook size according to your yarn and personal tension.

• Wool (for me about 3 balls (150 g) – Gründl King Cotton – bulky)

• Zpagetti (T-shirt) yarn (for me: ReCotton) for the basket

• Wool of choice for the blanket (for me: Super bulky wool)

• Crochet hook in suitable size (for me: 3.5 mm and 12 mm)

• Stuffing

• some pink yarn for the nose

Crochet in continuous rounds (spirals), unless otherwise stated.

I brushed my wool to make it look more furry. If you also want to brush your wool, it

is best to do so before you sew the pieces together or embroider something.

Abbreviations (US Terms):

MR = magic ring inc = increase

sc = single crochet dec = decrease

ch = chain BLO = back loop only

hdc = half double crochet FLO = front loop only

slst = slip stitch st = stitch

(-) x = repeat inside of () for x nr of times

I’m using an animal grooming brush.

Head:

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2. inc x6 (12)

3. (sc 1, inc) x6 (18)

4. (sc 2, inc) x6 (24)

5. (sc 3, inc) x6 (30)

6. (sc 4, inc) x6 (36)

7. (sc 5, inc) x6 (42)

8. (sc 6, inc) x6 (48)

9. (sc 7, inc) x6 (54)

10. (sc 8, inc) x6 (60)

11.-20. (10 Rounds) sc in each st around (60)

12. (sc 8, dec) x6 (54)

13. (sc 7, dec) x6 (48)

14. (sc 6, dec) x6 (42)

15. (sc 5, dec) x6 (36)

16. (sc 4, dec) x6 (30)

17. (sc 3, dec) x6 (24)

Stuff and shape the head.

18. (sc 2, dec) x6 (18)

19. (sc 1, dec) x6 (12)

Finish stuffing.

20. dec x6 (6)

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing, brush, if you like.

Muzzle:

You will start with an oval (see the diagram).

1. ch 6, starting in 2nd chain from hook: sc 4, sc 3 in last ch, rotate 180 degrees

and crochet along the opposite side of the foundation chain: sc 3, sc 2 in last ch

(12)

2. inc, sc 3, inc x3, sc 3, inc x2 (18)

3. sc 1, inc, sc 3, (sc 1, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc 1, inc) x2 (24)

4. sc 2, inc, sc 3, (sc 2, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc 2, inc) x2 (30)

5. sc 3, inc, sc 3, (sc 3, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc 3, inc) x2 (36)

6.-8. (3 Rounds) sc in each st around (36)

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing, brush, if you like.

Stuff the muzzle, taking care not to overstuff. Pin in place and, once you are happy with the position, sew using the remaining yarn tail. Lightly stuff a little more if needed, you will sculpt the cheeks later on. If your yarn tail was long enough, youcan proceed directly to sculpting the cheeks. Guide your needle to come out directly below the middle of the muzzle. Now place the yarn in one straight line to the top of the muzzle. Insert your needle at the top and come back out at the bottom, through your initial stitch. Pull the yarn tight and repeat this 2 or 3 times. Secure the yarn end with a knot and hide inside of the muzzle.

Next, embroider the nose. I recommend making the outline first, then filling the nose and lastly, going over the outline once more to neaten the edges. I started from the bottom of the head again and hid the tail ends in the head after knotting them securely.

Since the head still looks relatively unspectacular, you can shape it a bit. To do this, thread strong thread (e. g. sewing thread) into a long enough needle and insert it at the bottom of the head and guide it to a point directly above the muzzle (where you would place an eye), reinsert on the other side (where you would place the other eye) and go back to the initial stitch at the bottom. Now tighten the thread until the head has formed, knot well, weave in loose ends. Finally, embroider the eyes. See also pictures below.

Ear (make 2):

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2. (sc 2, inc) x2 (8)

3. (sc 3, inc) x2 (10)

4. (sc 4, inc) x2 (12)

5. (sc 5, inc) x2 (14)

6. (sc 6, inc) x2 (16)

7. (sc 7, inc) x2 (18)

8. (sc 8, inc) x2 (20)

9. (sc 9, inc) x2 (22)

10. (sc 10, inc) x2 (24)

Fold the ear flat, close the top with a row of slip stitches, crocheting through both stitches.

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing, brush, if you like.

Sew the ears on the head.

Body:

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2. inc x6 (12)

3. (sc 1, inc) x6 (18)

4. (sc 2, inc) x6 (24)

5. (sc 3, inc) x6 (30)

6. (sc 4, inc) x6 (36)

7. (sc 5, inc) x6 (42)

8. (sc 6, inc) x6 (48)

9. (sc 7, inc) x6 (54)

10.-18. (9 Rounds) sc in each st around (54)

19. sc 11, dec, (sc 4, dec) x5, sc 11 (48)

20.-24. (5 Rounds) sc in each st around (48)

25. (sc 14, dec) x3 (45)

26.-27. (3 Rounds) sc in each st around (45)

28. (sc 13, dec) x3 (42)

29.-30. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (42)

31. (sc 12, dec) x3 (39)

32. sc in each st around (39)

33. (sc 11, dec) x3 (36)

34. sc in each st around (36)

Stuff the rear part.

35. (sc 4, dec) x6 (30)

36. (sc 3, dec) x6 (24)

First published: 04.04.2016

37. (sc 2, dec) x6 (18)

38. (sc 1, dec) x6 (12)

Stuff the front part a little looser.

39. dec x6 (6)

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing, brush, if you like.

Pin the head to the body, make sure the belly is facing forward. Sew head and body together (best using the mattress stitch).

Paw (make 2):

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2. inc x6 (12)

3. (sc 1, inc) x6 (18)

4. (sc 2, inc) x6 (24)

5. (sc 3, inc) x6 (30)

6. -10. (5 Rounds) sc in each st around (30)

11. (sc 8, dec) x3 (27)

12. sc in each st around (27)

13. (sc 7, dec) x3 (24)

14. sc in each st around (24)

15. (sc 6, dec) x3 (21)

16. sc in each st around (21)

Stuff the paw but don’t overstuff so that they can still be shaped..

Fold the top of the paw flat, close it with a row of slip stitches, crocheting through both stitches.

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing, brush, if you like.

Using a long yarn end, you can now shape the toes. Use pins to mark the toe lines.

Insert your needle in the bottom into the stitch directly next to the stitch you marked.

Guide the yarn around the pin head, over the front of the paw and reinsert your needle right next to the marker on the top. Repeat this step 2 or 3 times, keeping the tension equally tight. The final exit should be on the bottom, where you started off, knot the end and hide any tail in the paw.

Tail:

It is best to stuff the tail as you work. It is best not to stuff the tail too tightly so that you can still shape it nicely at the end. To achieve a more sturdy shape for the tail you could add pipe cleaners or florist wire to the tail.

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2. inc x6 (12)

3. (sc 1, inc) x6 (18)

4. (sc 2, inc) x6 (24)

5.-8. (4 Rounds) sc in each st around (24)

You may change the color here.

9.-10. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (24)

11. dec, sc 22 (23)

12.-13. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (23)

14. dec, sc 21 (22)

15.-16. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (22)

17. dec, sc 20 (21)

18.-19. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (21)

20. dec, sc 19 (20)

21.-22. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (20)

23. dec, sc 18 (19)

24.-25. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (19)

26. dec, sc 17 (18)

27.-28. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (18)

29. dec, sc 16 (17)

30.-31. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (17)

32. dec, sc 15 (16)

33.-34. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (16)

35. dec, sc 14 (15)

36.-40. (5 Rounds) sc in each st around (15)

Fasten off, do not close, leave a long tail for sewing.

Finish stuffing.

Pin paws and tail on the body and if it looks nice for you, sew them on.

If you like, you can now crochet a basket – the measurements probably fit even for a real cat, depending on the size you have to add a few more rounds :o)

Basket:

Inside:

Zpagetti (T-shirt) yarn, Hook size 12 mm

You’ll start with an oval again.

Crochet in joined rounds (join each round with a slst and chain 1).

1. ch 6, starting in 2nd chain from hook: sc 4, sc 3 in last st, rotate 180 degrees and crochet along the opposite side of the foundation chain: sc 3, sc 2 in last st, slst in 1st st, ch 1(12)

2. inc, sc 3, inc x3, sc 3, inc x2, slst in 1st st, ch 1 (18)

3. sc 1, inc, sc 3, (sc 1, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc 1, inc) x2, slst in 1st st, ch 1 (24)

4. sc 2, inc, sc 3, (sc 2, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc 2, inc) x2, slst in 1st st, ch 1 (30)

5. sc 3, inc, sc 3, (sc 3, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc 3, inc) x2, slst in 1st st, ch 1 (36)

6. sc 4, inc, sc 3, (sc 4, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc 4, inc) x2, slst in 1st st, ch 1 (42)

7. sc 5, inc, sc 3, (sc 5, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc 5, inc) x2, slst in 1st st, ch 1 (48)

8. sc 6, inc, sc 3, (sc 6, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc 6, inc) x2, slst in 1st st, ch 1 (54)

9. sc 7, inc, sc 3, (sc 7, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc 7, inc) x2, slst in 1st st, ch 1 (60)

Check if this size fits your cat. If not, add more rounds like this.

10. FLO: sc in each st around, slst in 1st st, ch 1 (60)

11. sc in each st around, slst in 1st st (60)

Fasten off invisible.

Mark 12 stitches in the middle on one of the longer sides. Rejoin at the left marker with the same yarn.

Crochet in rows now. At the end of each row, chain 1 and turn.

12. ch 1, sc 48, ch 1, turn (48)

13. dec, sc 44, dec, ch 1, turn (46)

14. dec, sc 42, dec, ch 1, turn (44)

15. dec, sc 40, dec (42)

Fasten off invisibly.

Outside:

Zpagetti (T-shirt) yarn, you may use another color, Hook size 12 mm

You’ll start with an oval again.

Crochet in joined rounds (join each round with a slst and chain 1).

1. ch 6, starting in 2nd chain from hook: sc 4, sc 3 in last st, rotate 180 degrees and crochet along the opposite side of the foundation chain: sc 3, sc 2 in last st, slst in 1st st, ch 1(12)

2. inc, sc 3, inc x3, sc 3, inc x2, slst in 1st st, ch 1 (18)

3. sc 1, inc, sc 3, (sc 1, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc 1, inc) x2, slst in 1st st, ch 1 (24)

4. sc 2, inc, sc 3, (sc 2, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc 2, inc) x2, slst in 1st st, ch 1 (30)

5. sc 3, inc, sc 3, (sc 3, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc 3, inc) x2, slst in 1st st, ch 1 (36)

6. sc 4, inc, sc 3, (sc 4, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc 4, inc) x2, slst in 1st st, ch 1 (42)

7. sc 5, inc, sc 3, (sc 5, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc 5, inc) x2, slst in 1st st, ch 1 (48)

8. sc 6, inc, sc 3, (sc 6, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc 6, inc) x2, slst in 1st st, ch 1 (54)

9. sc 7, inc, sc 3, (sc 7, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc 7, inc) x2, slst in 1st st, ch 1 (60)

10. sc 8, inc, sc 3, (sc 8, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc 8, inc) x2, slst in 1st st, ch 1 (66)

11. BLO: sc in each st around, , slst in 1st st, ch 1 (66)

12. sc in each st around, slst in 1st st (66)

Fasten off invisibly.

Mark 12 stitches in the middle on one of the longer sides. Rejoin at the right marker with the same yarn.

Crochet in rows now. At the end of each row, chain 1 and turn.

13. ch 1, sc in each st around, ch 1, turn (54)

14. dec, sc 50, dec, ch 1, turn (52)

15. dec, sc 48, dec, ch 1, turn (50)

16. dec, sc 46, dec (48)

Do not turn, don’t fasten off. Put 1st part of the basket in the 2nd part, make a round of reverse single crochet / crab stitch, always stitch through both stitches. You have to increase 6 stitches around the inner part – so crochet 6 times: 7 reverse stitches as usual, for each 8st stitch insert hook through this stitch at the outside and through the previous stitch of the inside again, 2 stitches follows, then crochet along the slant of the flattened entry area, continue 12 stitches as usual and work up the slant on the other side, join round with a slip stitch.

Fasten off invisibly.

For more comfort of the cat I crocheted a blanket for the basket.

Blanket:

I had scraps of very thick wool and I used it for the blanket. The wool was nearly the same weight as the Zpagetti yarn, so I used the same hook size as before.

If you only have thinner wool – no problem. Simply double or triple the yarn or just use your thin yarn and add as much rounds the same way as you need to fit the size of the basket.

Crochet in joined rounds (join each round with a slst and chain 1).

1. ch 6, starting in 2nd chain from hook: sc 4, sc 3 in last st, rotate 180 degrees and crochet along the opposite side of the foundation chain: sc 3, sc 2 in last st, slst in 1st st, ch 1(12)

2. inc, sc 3, inc x3, sc 3, inc x2, slst in 1st st, ch 1 (18)

3. sc 1, inc, sc 3, (sc 1, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc 1, inc) x2, slst in 1st st, ch 1 (24)

4. sc 2, inc, sc 3, (sc 2, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc 2, inc) x2, slst in 1st st, ch 1 (30)

5. sc 3, inc, sc 3, (sc 3, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc 3, inc) x2, slst in 1st st, ch 1 (36)

6. sc 4, inc, sc 3, (sc 4, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc 4, inc) x2, slst in 1st st, ch 1 (42)

For a nicer finish you can add a round of (ch 1, slst 1) alternately around.

Fasten off invisibly.